On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 10:21:06 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/


If you use this stuff when you are putting these things together the
corrosion is mitigated quite a bit.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor

Though I've never used it, some auto guys of every stripe swear by GM
heat riser lubricant for freeing nuts bolts. They say it beats
everything. GM dealer part, $7-10 a can. Spray I think.
Most here know how manifold riser valves freeze up.
I just use whatever's available and make sure I rap a hammer on the
part to aid penetration.
Over the years I've had opportunity to let penetrating oils soak on
some parts for a day or two. Never noticed a difference.
If the threads have corroded/welded together too bad it won't matter
what you use.
But getting whatever apart even with bad threads gets you a step ahead
since you don't have to drill anything out.
Then a tap and die set can often make things usable again.

--Vic

--Vic