"IanM" wrote in message
...
Well for what its worth, 5 litres of Jotun Seaguardian will do over 4
coats on a full keel 26 footer. That's two coats per year rolled on, +
extra coats near the waterline and on the rudder. Seaguardian is supposed
to be good for 30 months, but we haul annually anyway and might as well
freshen up the antifouling while we are out. The part tin will keep a year
if properly resealed with some butane gas in there to displace the air and
prevent it oxidizing. There is some thinners to add to the bill but
that's used at well under the 10% max ratio recommended. Works pretty
good as well, with no weed or barnacles unless it's got rubbed off
somewhere. Any spot that has got rubbed or has to be taken back to the
gelcoat for any reason gets underwater primer followed by black hard
scrubbable 'waterline' antifouling as a 'witness' coat and to prevent
serious fouling if it happens again. The same tiny can of scrubbable has
been on the go for the last two years and there is plenty left.

For all you mathematically challenged Leftpondians 1 litre is just under a
US quart.

This year I set aside half the big can as soon as I opened it as I had a
clean 2.5 litre tin handy. If you are keeping it, you want it well mixed,
as fresh as possible and to set it aside *before* mixing in old paint.

I read it as every third year he avoided buying a new can so that's 2 US
gallons for 3 years and he's reduced to 1 for 2 years by diluting it. How
he got 3 quarts left after two years and reckons to save half by
thinning, I do not know, but unless he's measured what's left in the can
accurately I wouldn't believe his 3 quarts per coat.

Unless he's getting more paint on himself and the hard standing he's
slapping it on far thicker than we do as we are doing two coats. I reckon
I'd have had plenty from my half can to do a 28 footer at an even two
coats all over with a bit spare for the waterline and where the prop wash
hits the rudder.

The biggest saving would be buy a radiator roller handle and the *GOOD*
(i.e. EXPENSIVE) rollers to go on it. A fully loaded large roller is to
heavy and awkward and cheap rollers break up too much and waste paint. The
extra length of the radiator roller handle makes the job go much quicker
with less stooping.

This makes more sense to me than those post who talk in terms of years
without haulout and paint so they put the stuff on much thicker.
Here in Norway I have to haul out every year because although Oslo fjord has
never frozen right over-at least since I have lived here-the channels
between the inner islands do freeze in a bad winter and the small creeks
where my marina is freeze every year and I do not want to see my boat iced
in with a couple of feet or more snow along the pontoons and no electricity
or water available at the berths.
So I haul every year and give my boat one coat of Hempel antifouling which I
apply with a brush and she always comes out clean except for the propeller
and shaft.
I have not found a rally good solution for these last because the speed of
rotation soon takes off the ablative coating of a standard antifouling.
However, I have found some antifouling Volvo sell (very expensive) in a
spray can for their outdrives which works pretty well because (I think) the
fouling cannot adhere to it and as soon as you run the motor it mostly
shears off.
I always use a brush. I do not go with rollers because they may be OK for
the wide open spaces but you will have to use a brush at some point for the
awkward corners. I never clean my brushes. Just squeeze off the surplus and
leave the bristles nice and straight and let them harden like that . Next
year soak them in gasoline overnight and they come soft again as antifouling
just washes off in gasoline.
I have a 38' fin keel boat with a spade rudder and the whole job takes just
four 750ml tins each year.