Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 09:04:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On May 27, 11:53 am, Wizard of Woodstock wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 08:25:22 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:







"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 May 2009 20:06:51 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:
"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 May 2009 16:35:27 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:
I feel like I live on another planet. Our climate here is such that
corrosion and a lot of factors are not applicable. Yes, I know it is
good
to have everything fused. My question was the ease at which the whole
system can be turned off versus the now thing of clamping three
terminals
on
a battery lug with a wing nut.
http://tinyurl.com/pclp2f
TYVM. The big copper knife switch clonker which had a clamp, then a knife
switch, then another battery post was $38 at NAPA.
Maye I don't fully grasp your definition of "knife" switch.
Are you talking about something like this?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_switch
A knife switch is just a straight piece of copper that looks like a knife.
On one end it is bolted to two strips of copper so it rotates. On the other
it fits BETWEEN two strips of copper. It is usually bolted on a board or
base. You've probably seen them in electrical panels. Not real common, yet
still used.
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog...roducts_id=726...
As you can see, this one is much more complicated than the one you
suggested.
Bad idea on several levels.

But do what you will.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I'd be concerned about corrosion eventually affecting the on
resistance of a open knife switch.

Closed body switches can corrode, and you can't clean the contacts.

Casady

Marine battery switches are sealed and gasketeted also many have
lubricated contacts. They rarely fail and if they do, are cheap enough
to relace. Why are we still talking about knife switches?