On Wed, 27 May 2009 09:04:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On May 27, 11:53*am, Wizard of Woodstock wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 08:25:22 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:







"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 26 May 2009 20:06:51 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 May 2009 16:35:27 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I feel like I live on another planet. *Our climate here is such that
corrosion and a lot of factors are not applicable. *Yes, I know it is
good
to have everything fused. *My question was the ease at which the whole
system can be turned off versus the now thing of clamping three
terminals
on
a battery lug with a wing nut.

http://tinyurl.com/pclp2f

TYVM. *The big copper knife switch clonker which had a clamp, then a knife
switch, then another battery post was $38 at NAPA.

Maye I don't fully grasp your definition of "knife" switch.

Are you talking about something like this?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_switch

A knife switch is just a straight piece of copper that looks like a knife.
On one end it is bolted to two strips of copper so it rotates. *On the other
it fits BETWEEN two strips of copper. *It is usually bolted on a board or
base. *You've probably seen them in electrical panels. *Not real common, yet
still used.

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog...roducts_id=726...

As you can see, this one is much more complicated than the one you
suggested.

Bad idea on several levels.

But do what you will.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd be concerned about corrosion eventually affecting the on
resistance of a open knife switch.

Closed body switches can corrode, and you can't clean the contacts.

Casady