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posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: May 2009
Posts: 826
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Boat wiring questions
wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 May 2009 23:03:13 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock
wrote:
On Tue, 26 May 2009 22:57:16 -0400, wrote:
On Tue, 26 May 2009 22:28:46 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock
wrote:
On Tue, 26 May 2009 20:06:51 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:
"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
om...
On Tue, 26 May 2009 16:35:27 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:
I feel like I live on another planet. Our climate here is such that
corrosion and a lot of factors are not applicable. Yes, I know it is
good
to have everything fused. My question was the ease at which the
whole
system can be turned off versus the now thing of clamping three
terminals
on
a battery lug with a wing nut.
http://tinyurl.com/pclp2f
TYVM. The big copper knife switch clonker which had a clamp, then a
knife
switch, then another battery post was $38 at NAPA.
Maye I don't fully grasp your definition of "knife" switch.
Are you talking about something like this?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_switch
More like this
http://tinyurl.com/q6l5dt
I would think this would be a better choice.
http://www.utopiatools.com/-strse-41...ect/Detail.bok
Personally I think these things are just one more thing to fail.
... but I don't store my boat.
I trust the ignition switch and the lamp switch to disconnect my
battery from the load,
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=297
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