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Jim Conlin
 
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Default Diagonals in lofting

OOPS! that Triton is not a good choice as the engine is troubled. $15-20K
should get you a Triton or the like with a functioning diesel.

Jim Conlin wrote:

In that size range, unless you have very unusual requirements such as very
high performance, icebreaking or heartstopping beauty, you can buy a sound
boat for less than it would cost you to build it. For example, this
Pearson Triton on Ebay.
Such a boat will afford opportunity for cabinetry improvements.



Hollywood wrote:

Hi All,

I'm considering building my own boat from a set of plans. It's nothing
major, just a 28'
round-bottomed cutter.

I know, build a dingy first to sharpen my skills, then build the big one.
Problem is, life's
getting on and, with the reaper peeking at me from over the next hill,
I'd like to get out and
do some sailing before he sits down with me.

I would try to buy one, but it would seem the rest of the world has never
heard of a beamy
24-30 foot wooden cutter with a transom hung rudder and a full keel using
lead as ballast. So
here I am.

I do understand most of the lines used in lofting with the exception of
the diagonal. What
exactly is the diagonal supposed to show me?

While I'm at it I might as well ask about frames. The plans call for
steam bent frames because
it is supposedly faster, cheaper and takes up less room than sawn frames.
I have a few problems
with this. 1) Where is one supposed to get the clear wood for the frames,
2] Bending a frame to
an arch isn't much of a problem but how do you bend it to match the curve
laid out by the
intersection of the water lines and buttocks (i.e. the angle described
gets more acute the
closer to the bow at the sheer but will be flatter on the same frame
close to the keel. This
can be done on a sawn frame by changing the angle of the bandsaw table as
you cut the frame).

Thanks for any help,

Frank