You are looking at a little less than 3 cubic feet of lead. The top
half of a 55 gallon drum would work but you will need some strong
bracing around the base. I say top half because it has the fitting for
a drum valve. You will need to rig a way to pull the valve open when
the melt is ready and a length of 4x4 angle iron for a trough to run the
lead to the mold.
A fish cooker type burner will not cut it. You really need something
with forced air like a tar pot burner and a 40 lb tank of propane
minimum. If the tanks have OPDs with flow restrictors use two 40s tied
together to keep up with the burner. 100 lb tanks are better because
they don't require OPDs and you can pull gas as fast as you need. It
will probably not take more than 15-20 lbs to do the melt but the gas is
drawn off very fast which chills the tank and drops the pressure. 20 lb
tanks will freeze up and you will stall out about half way through the
melt.
Another hint: When the melt is almost ready to pour, stir it with a
freshly cut straight green wood stick. I use crape myrtle. The stick
will start to make a singing sound and all the trash and dross will
magically rise to the top.
Also, if you are casting a fin, do not use bullet or shielding lead.
Pure lead is fine for internal balast but to soft for fins. It needs
antimony to strengthen it. Wheel weights have about 3% antimony and
will produce a good strong fin, at least in ths size you are casting.
My 5' high 9,000 fin required 4% antimony.
James Johnson wrote:
It's hard finding lead keel casting information. If you don't mind what did you
use to melt the lead? Used iron bathtubs seem to be unavailable where I live
and I was thinking of having a 2'by 2' steel box made out of 3/16 or 1/4 plate.
I was also wondering if renting a couple of propane burners that use the common
18 pound tanks would be enough. Any suggestions about this plan?
I am restoring a 43 year old Dutch built 26' sloop. It has a 1200 pound iron
keel and 650 pounds of inside lead ballast. It is a keel centerboard design and
the keel is in rough shape and keeping it from rusting in salt water I think
would be an unending chore (the centerboard slot is the source of most
problems).
If I replace the iron with a lead keel of identical dimensions I could eliminate
the inside ballast and not have to deal with rusting. The inside ballast was
added by the designer ( I suppose after complaints about tenderness) and is
penciled in on the factory plans.
JJ
On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 13:55:02 -0400, "Kevin Fitz-Gerald"
wrote:
"mike worrall" wrote in message
. com...
I've discovered a few sites on the 'Net selling 25lb bags for $15, but
am hoping that the assembled brain-trust can suggest a less expensive
option.
Mike, try going to a trap range. If you explain what you want it for, they
may let you collect all you want for free. There is a local sportsman's
club that has a range and you can go out and scoop up handfuls (or shovel
fulls) of mostly #8 shot. You will get some dirt and debris mixed in, but
that can be sifted out fairly easily if it bothers you. Mixed with a little
epoxy, it makes a great slurry that will flow just about anywhere. Good
luck.
Regards,
Kevin Fitz-Gerald
"Have ShopBot, Will Create!"
James Johnson
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