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Sailboat Restoration - Is it worth it?
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
William R. Watt ) writes:
Second, if the patching doesn't work you can build a cheap plywood hull
and put the sail, daggerboard, and rudder on that. You can make a cheap
PS. Stay away from the "taped seam" construction method (also called
"stitch-and-tape" and "stitch-and-glue") because a quart of epoxy glue
will make the cost prohibitive.
BARF, so use polyester...
For a really low cost small boat you must
use the chine log construction method (screws and glue) with the
construction glue in the caulking tube. The construction glue isn't strong
enough to hold the boat together by itself but works fine with screws and
chine logs
Or even cheaper with ring nails and chine logs
(long thin strips of wood along the joins). Make sure all
plywood edges are well sealed with resin so water won't soak into the
interior of the plywood and start delamination. Just seal well and paint,
no need to "tape" the seams. Finally, you can fill any voids in plywood
with PL Premuim by drilling little holes and pumping the stuff in.
Which is not really any stronger than the same without all that extra
work, just pour in some resin, much easier than drilling holes, or
seeing as you are trying to build for only a few seasons, don't bother
filling it with anything
There's
a recent photo on my website (underside of backrest on the Loonie) showing
a void that's been filled this way. Leftover polyester resin will keep
indefinitely in the 'fridge and PL Premium glue in the freezer, so there's
no waste.
Storing most resins successfully is not that hard with a glance or two
at the lable. Learning to use what's available, effectively,
priceless...
Scotty
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