Bob,
Metal boats require a tube or box be welded to the hull extending into the
interior. The inside of the tube or box should have a flat flange that mates
to the portlight of choice. Typically, the portlight will have a lip that
extends into the tube a short distance. The tubes length should correspond
to the position of the inner hull interior lining. Mounting the portlight to
the tube must be done so that the portlight has no electrical connection to
the hull (dissimilar metal electrolosis). I use duct tape around the tube
covering the mating surfaces. Then polysulfide deck cauking and then the
bolts are installed though the flat flange of the portlight, through nylon
top hats, into tapped holes the in the tube flange. On my installation the
interior hull lining extends between the tube flange and the portlight for a
very finished look. Double check with a VOM that there is an open circuit
between portlight and hull. The last step is to apply a finish polysulphide
bead from the outside, between the tube and portlight lip smoothing with
your finger wetted with dish soap.
Steve

"TORMAC53" wrote in message
...
I have to replace all of my ports. They have been leaking and have damaged
the
cabinside wood on the interior. I have replaced all that wood but now the
ports
are not cleaning up well, the epoxy that held the spigot band is letting
go.
These are the higher end brand chromed bronze.
I have looked at thier web site and found that they don't make new ones
now
except out of stainless. I think my hull curves too much for that and that
was
the whole problem anyway.
Who has some names and good portlight experiences?
Bob Glennon