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Juan Bassols Juan Bassols is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Default installing a calorifier


Rick Morel wrote:

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:38:20 +0200, (Juan Bassols)
wrote:

Steve

thank you for your warnings, I will think about it. I have a sailing
yacht and normally I sail and don't have a chance for a hot water
shower. If I have to use the engine, then I was thinking to have a
chance for a warm shower.
I thought to install the calorifier in parallel with the sea water heat
exchanger and with a 3 way valve. If I install it in series the pressure
drop of the circuit will increase and I will pump less water through the
engine. In parallel I have the possibility to disconnect the calorifier
without influencing the water circuit.

Juan


Juan, standard procedure is to hook it in series. Break the fresh
water cooling return line from the heat exchanger, go through the
calorifier from the heat exchanger then to the return line. No
pressure drop involved, you're simply circulating the water as before.
In fact, it's a good thing because now you've added to the volume of
your fresh cooling water by the amount of the hoses and calorifier.

On our sailing yacht, which is home, 20 minutes of running gives us 6
gal of 180 deg F shower water. Our water heater is well insulated so
we have hot water for about 10 hours or so after shutting the engine
down.

Rick

** Posted from
http://www.teranews.com **


Rick, then there is no need of an additional thermostatic valve? and the
water flows first through the calorifier and then trough the sea water
heat exchanger? I assume a calorifier has only very little pressure drop
and does not influence the total water flow, is this correct?

I am thinking on a small calorifier like yours, 25 liters or 6 gal,
preparing the boat for a longer cruise as soon as our young daughter
gets 5 years old and before she enter school. Maybe half a year or
longer, maybe to the Caribean..
Juan (Barcelona, Spain)