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Parallax
 
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Default Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup

(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Parallax ) writes:

Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide
material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and
painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting
the inside before enclosing it.


On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two
coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed
surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester
adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to
soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the
inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for
extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots
of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to
coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy
to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple
additional coats.


Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow
frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and
required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem
as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45
degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides.
I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not
really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with
thickened epoxy



Got the right side off again but even the left side does not really
fit right at the bow. If I try to get it's top edge within reasonable
distance of the bow end of the bow frame, say within 3/4" of being the
same height, then it misses the bottom stringer about 3' back adjacent
to the mast hole.

Options include:

1. Reduce the front height of the bow frame thus tapering the bow
downward just a little more, say 3/4". This will involve adding depth
to the top bow frame stringer.

2. Install the sides as best I can along the stringers aft of the bow
but make a thicker deck stringer for the bow. This can be done by
gluing a tapered piece to the deck stringer. The ply will not come
all the way up to the height of the bow frame at the bow but the space
will be covered by the thicker stringer. Epoxy putty will cover the
error.

3. Use a thicker bottom stringer (a stringer thickener) near the mast
hole but I dont think this will solve the whole problem.

4. Forcing the bottom adjacent to the mast hole up might allow the
stringer to be covered by the side. I am not sure what this will do
to the bottom shape. Not sure how to do this but I will try the
following: Use a strap clamp around the mast/centerboard box passing
over the outsides of the bottom stringers on either side and around
the bottom. Tighten, observe hull shape, tighten more, etc. Put in
screws thru side to hold it. MAYBE the strap clamp can then be pulled
out from between the side and the bottom stringer.

5. Perhaps a combo of 1,2,3 above.