On Oct 3, 10:19*am, wrote:
On Oct 3, 10:13 am, wrote:
On Oct 3, 10:01 am, "mmc" wrote:
"IanM" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Oct 2, 11:37 pm, wrote:
On Oct 2, 11:15 pm, wrote:
How old is that Mini-Cup? Who's design was it, Atkinson?.. I know I
have seen the plans at one time but don't remember who designed it..
Mine is only 5 yrs old and I do not know the designer but it is from
the mid 70s.
Ahhh, I knew I had seen it, I have plans for a couple of this guys
boats. He has since died and his kids after some prodding decided to
keep selling his plans..
http://www.stevproj.com/FastSailrs.html
The guy had a great hydro years ago, but they stopped selling plans
before I picked them up. It was a three ski enclosed vehicle that ran
on a very small engine...
In fact, this guy was one of the first real designers to go on line.
After talking to him a couple of times on the phone, I got into the
business and developed the "backyard renegade" attitude of selling
plans at reasonable prices while other guys were charging hundreds for
small dingies and sailboats. Some of the bigger plan hawkers were none
too happy
and the Minicup plans are now a freebie so the rest of us who maybe will
never have the time or desire to build a ply dinghy from scratch can see
what o'Hara's been building, sailing & now fixing.
http://www.stevproj.com/MiniCup.pdf
I do wonder however if it might be better *NOT* to try and save the hull
but rebuild with better quality materials, epoxy and marine sealents. By
the time all those screws have been chisled out of the stringers which are
apparantly 3/4" x 5/8" with a screw every 3" they are going to look like
swiss cheese. * Depends on the relative value he puts on his time against
a few sheets of ply. It will be no fun at all having to replace the bottom
in a year or two and the 'quick fix' will probably take longer than
building from scratch.
There really isn't that much wood required:
LUMBER:
5 - 4' X 8' panels of 1/4" ACX (or better) exterior grade plywood
1 - 14' clear fir 1" x 6" stock
1 - 8' clear fir 1" x 6" stock
1 - 8' clear fir 1" x 12" stock
1 - 12' clear fir 1" x 3" stock
1 - 5' clear fir 2" x 4" stock
Upgrade a bit - say hardwood faced marine ply for the decks and transom
fininshed bright and eveyone will be admiring this boat for the next 20
years. *With a bit of TLC, it should last three generations.
What do you think about using stitch and glue instead of framing the hull?
It's a lot faster, easier and plenty strong for the application.
MMC- Hide quoted text -
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Well, without studying the plans I would note that not every boat is
right for S+T. There needs to be a good amount of curve in adjoining
edges to make the plywood strong. Some feel that fiberglass can be
used for strength, but a good S+T uses curved ply for strength, and
glass as a protectant and sealer.
BTW, here is my very old website about the MiniCups, hasnt been
updated in two yrs.http://home.mindspring.com/~ohara5.0/
I thought about stitch and glue but am not really sure it is
applicable here. *The "stringers" work very well and are lightweight
and serve the same purpose.
These boats are a lot of fun and I highly reccomend them. *I actually
considered beefing them up and going "cruising" in them along the
coast here. *Unfortunately, life consists of too many interesting
things to do and not enough time for many.- Hide quoted text -
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I really wouldn't try to 'beef it up", it's already low enough to
qualify LTP
There are plenty of decent daysailers out there that
might fit the bill. Even some of the older designs would do better in
my opinion. Look at John Gardner's offerings. Many of them could and
have been converted to S+T with great results. Not to mention, they
are much nicer looking...