wrote in :

I could also hear the little generator increase its rpm substantially
above its minimum when producing only 10A @ 24v, so I wonder if, in
practice, you would get ANY benefit from the variable RPM, because I
think most would shut the generator down when battery charging was
down to only 10A. I also wonder why they feel the need to increase RPM
at all at that load since just controlling the alternator excitation
would surely get you 10A at 2200 rpm.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeBlxjL5dT8

This is a much better solution. It turns 300 RPM and this is the noise
it makes OUT IN THE OPEN WITHIN 6" OF A VIDEO CAMERA MICROPHONE. Notice
how the chickens are totally unafraid of it. It is producing 6,500
watts of 220VAC 50Hz serious electrical power, 24/7 for about a litre
per hour. Watch him put his hands on it. It's barely warm to the
touch. It has no water pump. Water circulates by convection to cool
it. The hot water pipe he touches doesn't burn his hands. A simple
heat exchanger with AC powered pump on the seawater side would cool it
forever, OR you could simply run some pipes through the hull and let it
convection cool through a keel cooler at its same level so convection
works...just under the waterline, eliminating the pumps entirely! They
run 24/7 for 40 years without overhaul. It will also run, flawlessly,
on any waste vegetable oil thin enough to inject. Preheat the oil by
wrapping copper tubing around the exhaust pipe and it runs for free.
Some owners have installed a ring gear and starter on one of the two
flywheels to automate the manual starting without even opening the
compression release. There is a youtube showing him starting it by
pressing a button.

Sailboat's can be easily powered by speed-controlled AC motors. Remove
the troublesome auxiliary diesels in them now, and replace it with a
listeroid and AC traction motor with solid state speed control. Run the
whole boat off AC power, not DC. The weight savings in batteries will
make up for the Listeroids weight in the bilge. No battery explosions
or leaking, no battery expenses, no battery maintenance and
replacements, no stupid DC power nonsense. All that heavy DC wiring can
be removed and replaced with high voltage AC much thinner and lighter
wiring, raising the waterline further. No charger will be necessary as
everything is AC powered, just like home. No inverters and that
nonsense, either.

Yankees will appreciate it when you simply move two Y valves and divert
the little waste heat from the heat exchanger to the hot water tank or
to the passive radiator heating inside the cold, cold cabin, extending
the boating season by many weeks each year. Southerners will appreciate
having the air conditioner running any time they get hot....not just at
the dock.

Did I mention it burns 1 litre an hour!

Screw all that low voltage, high current, DC crap.... Run the boat
electronic gadgets off a DC power supply with a little battery backup,
for emergencies like flooding. The Listeroid, by the way, WILL RUN
SUBMERGED as long as you keep the air intake above the waterline! I'd
suspect the flywheels to absorb a lot of power submerged, but it has
been done with no damage!

Can you imagine how quiet a Listeroid will be in a properly sound
proofed engine room with proper water box muffler to take care of the
popping? You might hear a faint thumping through the huge rubber shock
absorbers. No rigid motor mounts are necessary as it doesn't hook to
the shaft the traction motor drives.....electrically!

Not enough power? Install the 2-cylinder, 24hp model. It uses 2 litres
per hour! 12KW should be enough for any boat!

If you run it constantly, by the way, the oil change interval is twice a
month... It also has no oil pump to fail. It's splash oiled.

SO SIMPLE AN ENGINE!

That Chinese crap has a runtime life of about 500 hours....then they are
worn out.