On Aug 12, 10:22*am, TJ wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
"TJ" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:

My thought would be that seizing it damaged the piston/cylinder and
possibly the seals as well. *Pull the top end and take a look at the
cylinder wall to see if you can get by with a piston/rings or if you need
a whole new top end. *It's not unusual for seized 2 strokes to run again
after cooling down but they seldom are ever the same. *When's the last
time you had replaced the impeller?
I didn't, because I kept seeing water coming out the pee hole. That's part
of why it's my own fault. I knew better.

The cylinder head is easy enough to pull without taking the thing out of
that clamshell case, so I guess I need to do that before thinking much
more. The parts list indicates they had .020 and .040 oversized piston and
ring sets available, though they would probably be next to impossible to
find any more now. But, you never know. Somebody might have some gathering
dust on a shelf somewhere. In any case, that would seem to indicate that
the standard piston/rings are good to .010 over size, at least. Perhaps if
the scoring isn't very bad a bit of machining would help. I own a farm,
and have been known to rebuild an engine or two in my time. Trouble is,
most of my experience is with four-strokes in tractors and combines.

This old motor and I have been through a lot of good times together, and I
really hate the idea of giving up on her without a fight. Between now and
the end of the growing season, though, I have to spend my time making a
living.

TJ

Yea, you've got no one but yourself to blame if you tried to get 20 years
out a rubber impeller.

That they only have 20 and 40 over does not indicate that you can use a
standard piston in a 10 over hole. *A 2 stroke will have hgiher clearance
built into the piston size already. *If it needs boring to remove scoring
then you need to find a 20 or 40 over piston. *That would be the next thing
to research after you take a look at the cylinder. *You might be surprised
about the piston. *Some of those smaller engines were built in various
configuations using the same pistons for a long time. *You might also find a
use top end somewhere but after this many years the chances of any not being
pretty worn out are slim.

So far, it looks like I've lucked out. The cylinder walls feel and look
as smooth as a baby's bottom. One wall had more oil on it than the
other, indicating it was the one that was misfiring that last day,
August 2nd. The center electrode of the plug from that cylinder looked
like it had recently broken off down near the insulator, so I suspect
that was the reason for the misfiring. I do see the slightest bit of
scuffing, barely discernible, on the bottom of the top cylinder, but who
knows how long that's been there. Both pistons can be rocked back and
forth a bit, indicating at the least worn rings, and probably worn
pistons. But then, I'd expect that after 20 years, even using it for a
week a year, and as you said, they have higher clearances built-in. One
of those pistons is 44 years old.

I'm still thinking new rings and new plugs will restore most of the
power, and I should replace the crankshaft seals simply because they're
rubber too, are also 22 years old, and have been exposed to that heat.

Then again, I also have a '54 10-horse that's never had the crank seals
or piston rings replaced, and it runs like a scared cat. That's the
motor that normally runs our second boat. Seeing as I've had that one
for 10 years, maybe it would be a good idea to replace that impeller
while I'm in the process of ordering parts, too. :^)

TJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If anything else, scrounge around on ebay. there's still OEM parts
available for those engines if you know what to look for. Some at
very reasonable prices, too!