"TJ" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
"TJ" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:

My thought would be that seizing it damaged the piston/cylinder and
possibly the seals as well. Pull the top end and take a look at the
cylinder wall to see if you can get by with a piston/rings or if you
need a whole new top end. It's not unusual for seized 2 strokes to run
again after cooling down but they seldom are ever the same. When's the
last time you had replaced the impeller?
I didn't, because I kept seeing water coming out the pee hole. That's
part of why it's my own fault. I knew better.

The cylinder head is easy enough to pull without taking the thing out of
that clamshell case, so I guess I need to do that before thinking much
more. The parts list indicates they had .020 and .040 oversized piston
and ring sets available, though they would probably be next to
impossible to find any more now. But, you never know. Somebody might
have some gathering dust on a shelf somewhere. In any case, that would
seem to indicate that the standard piston/rings are good to .010 over
size, at least. Perhaps if the scoring isn't very bad a bit of machining
would help. I own a farm, and have been known to rebuild an engine or
two in my time. Trouble is, most of my experience is with four-strokes
in tractors and combines.

This old motor and I have been through a lot of good times together, and
I really hate the idea of giving up on her without a fight. Between now
and the end of the growing season, though, I have to spend my time
making a living.

TJ

Yea, you've got no one but yourself to blame if you tried to get 20 years
out a rubber impeller.

That they only have 20 and 40 over does not indicate that you can use a
standard piston in a 10 over hole. A 2 stroke will have hgiher clearance
built into the piston size already. If it needs boring to remove scoring
then you need to find a 20 or 40 over piston. That would be the next
thing to research after you take a look at the cylinder. You might be
surprised about the piston. Some of those smaller engines were built in
various configuations using the same pistons for a long time. You might
also find a use top end somewhere but after this many years the chances
of any not being pretty worn out are slim.


So far, it looks like I've lucked out. The cylinder walls feel and look as
smooth as a baby's bottom. One wall had more oil on it than the other,
indicating it was the one that was misfiring that last day, August 2nd.
The center electrode of the plug from that cylinder looked like it had
recently broken off down near the insulator, so I suspect that was the
reason for the misfiring. I do see the slightest bit of scuffing, barely
discernible, on the bottom of the top cylinder, but who knows how long
that's been there. Both pistons can be rocked back and forth a bit,
indicating at the least worn rings, and probably worn pistons. But then,
I'd expect that after 20 years, even using it for a week a year, and as
you said, they have higher clearances built-in. One of those pistons is 44
years old.

I'm still thinking new rings and new plugs will restore most of the power,
and I should replace the crankshaft seals simply because they're rubber
too, are also 22 years old, and have been exposed to that heat.

Then again, I also have a '54 10-horse that's never had the crank seals or
piston rings replaced, and it runs like a scared cat. That's the motor
that normally runs our second boat. Seeing as I've had that one for 10
years, maybe it would be a good idea to replace that impeller while I'm in
the process of ordering parts, too. :^)

TJ


Preventive maintenance...that's what it's all about.