" wrote in
:

http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_...rs/Danfoss/dan
f
oss.asp

Hmm.....

Basic Specifications:
bullet Refrigerant:
HFC-134a, CFC-12
bullet Speed Range:
2,500 - 4,400 rpm
Yep, it's DC allright...

bullet Capacity:
934 Btu/hr (274 Watts)
I don't understand how they get 274 watts of cooling with only 168 watts
input. Must be physics magic!

bullet Max Evap (2.5k rpm)
+23F (-5C)
bullet Max Evap (4.4k rpm)
+23F (-5C)
bullet Power Input (max):
168 Watts

Arithmetic: 168W/13.8V=12.17 amps.

In comparison, the bar fridges draw LESS POWER off AC motors. The 2.2
cuft I got yesterday draws 1.08A (measured) pumping hard on a hot box
after 10 minutes of stabilzation...That's 120x1.08=129.6 watts/.95 (95%
efficient inverter)+ 5 watts idling = 141.4W after conversion....still
20 watts less than the Danforth. My 4.4 cuft $129 Magic Chef draws 148
watts (measured) and through inverter would be about equal....but $850
cheaper. As it sits full of beer right next to my desk, I can estimate
its duty cycle at 10% just sitting there after stabilization. Solid
foam insulation form fitted leaves only the door seal, same as any
marine fridge, magnetic strips with accordion folding pressure, as the
leakage point. It doesn't leak much as the case is never wet and
there's no doorseal heater strips in it....too cheap.

I still contend the SMALL INVERTER/cheap AC fridge is very competitive
without taking out a mortgage. For a 150W box, you need a 200-300W
inverter....not that 4KW monster with the 4 fans from Waste Marine. The
little inverters draw almost no idle power, unlike the big beast. It's
insignificant, even for boat battery banks. You want it mounted...I use
steel angle brackets and toggle bolts through the thin walled case
CAREFULLY drilled away from where it gets hot (condensor coils buried
under the skin). The old R12 I got yesterday has external coils out the
back...MUCH MORE EFFICIENT but vulnerable to breakage.



bullet Height:
5.39" (137 mm)
bullet Weight:
9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)