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Lew Hodgett
 
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Default Which Tool for Relieving Bulkhead ?

mike worrall writes:

Imagine a freshly cut-out plywood bulhead lying horizontaly on a table
before you. The bulkhead will be attached to, or installed into the
fiberglass hull using 'bonding angles' i.e., several layers of 'glass
/ epoxy that will lap onto both the bulkhead and hull. I'd like to
relieve, or remove, about 1/8" of the plywood (face) material all
along the edge of the bulkhead (where it will bond to the hull) for
(say) 3" from the edge on both sides of the bulkhead. In this way,
the 'glass angles will lie flush with the bulhead surface.

How do I do this? That is, wat tool(s) would be used for removing the
plywood, leaving a clean cut of consistent depth?


Lots of ways to do it buy why bother?

You are going to be using glass and fairing compound to bond the bulkheads
to the hull anyway.

The proper size beer bottle to form the fillet is probably of more
concern.G

BTW, even my smallest bulkhead had to be assembled inside the hull.

These bulkheads were constructed using two (2) pieces of 1/2", 4 ply, CDX,
temporally screwed together on the layout table to form a blank, some of
which were 12 ft x 16 ft, using 4x8 sheets, then laid out using a tick stick
and trimmed to size.

Finished bulkhead is now disassembled, carried up into the boat, piece by
piece, and reassembled using low cost steel deck screws and wood glue.

The assembled bulkhead is now located in the hull with blocks that have been
temporally attached to the hull with deck screws and tabbed to the hull with
scrap glass pieces. (One layer of 24 oz double bias).

When cured, the blocks are removed and the rest of the bulkhead is now
glassed to the hull.

When cured, fairing compound is used to fill all voids between hull and
bulkhead and a layer of glass is laid over the compound to form a fillet
using said beer bottle on the other side of the bulkhead.

When cured, sand down plywood and the glass fillet edges, seal with 2 coats
of epoxy, sanding between coats, then laminate two (2) layers of 24 oz
double bias glass on each side of the bulkhead.

After that, it's time for high build primer followed by LPU.

It's working for me.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
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