It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a
benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up
was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside
pieces to give a finished look without plugs.

I am still waiting to see if someone else has comments as to weather
pegs and epoxy are suitable for this, I still say epoxy will do the
trick if the part is mounted and supported properly. Again, if someone
out there knows different, please speak up so this guy does not get
real wet and come find me! I know someone suggested going all the way
through with rods, but this really has an effect on the strength of
the final part.

Me too.

Another post proposed the posibility of using resorcinol instead of
epoxy. I have no idea what this is. He also suggested that no pegs
would be necessary, and that I could just use a good flat piece of
wood to ensure they clamp up straight. I an still worried that the
vertical pressures put on it could sheer the strips from each other if
it was just glued up. I definitely dont want to put a rod all the way
through.


For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for
the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness
dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick
finished piece is about what I was shooting for.

I would use store bought, scored pegs so you do not have any glue
pressure buildup behind the pegs under pressure. You could drill
probably 7/8" into each piece and use 1 1/2" long by 3/8 thick
hardwood pegs. Remember, the holes are offset, so it is not like
drilling a hole all the way through the part.

Isn't 7/8" is going to be real close to going all the way through 4/4?



For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it
being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a
channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up
together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch
channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If
it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the
edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the
piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it.

I hope this makes sense.

It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

I plan on putting a slot in the middle for the anchor and rode to pass
through so i cant go straight up the middle. Can I use this method
and make an L shape to go up the side and than laterally to the
center?

Thanks!
Rob