PPS: Personally, I'd skip dowels and splines. Just buy a nice flat MDF
board, put it on a level table, and glue up your strips. Clamp a stiff (not
MDF) board over the top of the strips to hold them flat. In strip-built
boards, always expect to do some clean up and a little planing afterwards.
I've done this by hand with a sharp low-angle block plane, followed by a
220-grit sanding with a good random orbital sander, and it works fine
....very easy.

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams