Phil Bolger once started builing a hull that way but gave it up when he
found out how much the adhesive was costing, and finished it the old
fashioned way. You might want to cost out the project before getting started.

There are more flexible adhesives than epoxy. You might look into some of
them. I've heard of polyurethane being used on lapped strake (cliker) hulls.

Seams above the waterline tend to dry out and open up while seams below
the waterline swell up tight. If glued seams can't open as the wood dries
the wood may split. TF Jones encoutered this after 10 years on a lapped
strake canoe built light with thin strakes. That canoe was kept inside out
of the sun when not in use.

"Scott Downey" ) writes:
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1116
Glued Carvel
Plank edges may be shaped and glued with a thickened epoxy mix or
alternatively the seams of dry fitted planks may be routed later to a
constant width and fitted with wooden splines which are glued into place.
This latter method is the usual treatment when a traditionally built carvel
craft is reconstructed using epoxy adhesives as part of a full restoration
program. Sometimes a thickened epoxy mix is introduced into the seams as an
alternative to wooden splines and this seems to be just as effective in
fastening the plank edges together. The planking is also glued to the spine
and framework, which on new boats is built of laminated hardwood, glued and
coated with epoxy.




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