wrote in message
...
On May 16, 11:03 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
wrote in message
...
On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with
a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both
valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using
plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best
compromise.
The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with
seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be
continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve
You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how
it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider
the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.
Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is
compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some
iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel
Wilbur Hubbard
I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are
you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is
going to happen,
or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be
available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of.
Monel, or cupro-nickel as it is generically termed, is widely available
in
the shipping industry. Surely thru-hulls are available made from this
wonderful substance. And through hulls of 316 SS as the OP seems inclined
to
install are inferior to Monel. I've heard of at least one case where the
entire hull of a sailboat was made from cupro-nickel. It will last a
lifetime. And I've read that it has anti-fouling properties such that
bottom
paint isn't necessary.
My next blue water cruiser will be made from this noble metal. But it's
not
light. So that will necessitate my next hull be in the 120-140 foot
range.
But, hey, I can afford the best!
Wilbur Hubbard
Swan 68 starter boat!
My dear nattering nabob of negativity....a properly installed through
hull should not come in contact with the hull anyway. It should be
bedded in some waterproof caulking compound that will isolate the two,
so electrolysis should not be a problem.
Duh! A proper hull is bonded. That means wiring together all the thru hulls
to a central ground. This also protects from lightning strikes. And what
about copper bottom paint? Surely it will put the thru-hulls in electrical
contact with the hull.
Wilbur Hubbard