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Per Corell
 
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Default Wood rot in sheathed 1876 Smack

Hi

(Gerdjan) wrote in message om...
Our ship is an East coast Smack build in England in 1876. Used as a
trawler till 1976. Registered as MN21, Maud. The ship is 37
ft long. (for Smack info:
http://www.alberta-ck318.freeserve.co.uk/index.htm ) About 25 years
ago the previous owner placed a new iron beam under the ship made a
second skin from ferro-cement around the ship, and sailed it to the
Netherlands. Now we have the problem.


This is so sad to read, now this is my best shots take it or leave it
;


1; Remove the concrete, replank the vessel that already was given 25
years more due to the concrete .

2; remove the concrete the planking is proberly full of nails that
maby is rusted away ,to hold the chicken wire in the first place,
leave the hull to dry for a year or two, glasfiber and polyester or
epoxy it.

You will stay with the problem with moisture untill the concrete is
gone, as that proberly is cold enough to make moisture in the inside
air condensate onto the colder surfaces no matter what condisions,
beside --- most small vessels don't have a ventilation system ,that is
made so that fresh air is taken from outside to be circulated between
the ribs ,so the air will be heated and acturly dry out the deadrooms
, so even you heat the cabin this just transport more moisture thru
the wood to the cold concrete.
-------- If 25 years ago you had made an airtight inner paneling with
air inlets from outdoor ,your problem could today be the reverse ;
that the planking would be cracking dry ,but when dameage done and the
hull proberly 25 years ago already shuld have been re-planked , a
complete new fresh air system working as proposed, will just be
another vaste of time and money, but this is the way to go if you
remove the concrete and replank the hull.
Before you decide, remember that with an old wooden boat ,a repair
alway's ask atleast a third more wood replaced than you can se.
P.C.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cyber-Boat/