Shaw & Tenny has a formula for the proper length for a pulling oar.

Inboard length should be 1/2 the beam between oarlocks + 2"
Total length should be 1/7 the inboard length times 25.

Assuming your oarlocks are aft of the maximum beam (and make the calculation
easier) call the distance between oarlocks as 52". Inboard length would be
26+2 or 28" . 1/7 of 28 is 4" times 25 is 100" = 8' to 8'6" in standard
lengths. For your maximum beam 9' would probably be better but measure the
oarlock beam first.. That will put the pull just above waist level. Much
shorter and the slope gets to steep. You will be pulling up at shoulder
level which in inefficient and uncomfortable. Any longer and it takes to
much movement to clear the water on the back stroke.

At $250/pair a set of 8' spruce Shaw & Tenneys with a good set of leathers
might be overkill for a working dink but they are a work of art and a joy to
pull with.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Jay" wrote in message
...
Now I realize this is primarily a group to discuss "cruising" and it's
rather difficult to comprehend "cruising" in a boat with oars operated
manually by a wheezing old geezer; however, my sometimes fertile mind
comes up with these scenarios and what better place to find the answer
than in rec.boats.cruising, the hangout of some of the brightest minds
in boatdom.

Prologue accolades aside, here is the problem(?).

1--I've already bought the Suzuki 2.5 hp outboard for our open utility
boat.

2--The boat is 14' 6" long with a 61" beam, 50" bottom width and
approximate 26" side depth.

3--In case the ultra-dependable Suzuki should fail or (gasp) run out
of fuel with no more present in the boat, I would have to row the $#@#$
% thing back to shore.

4--The oars I currently possess are 7' in length and they worked fine
for the dinghy we previously owned.

5--My concern now is that they may be too short with the wider beam
and higher side depth for my monkey arms to maintain a grip on them
while they dip sufficently into the drink and propel us forward.

Is there a guide anywhere that would determine proper oar size (i.e.
length) for an open rowboat that would take into account the
measurements of said rowboat?

-Jay
(trying to cover all bases before heading to the open sea...# : ^ )