Gabe,

I've used Pettit paints for years; I even used it to paint the steel keel on
a 'trailer-sailer'.

One of the most recent {a couple of years ago}applications - other then
anti-fouling bottom paint - was a 'touch-up' to the gel-coat of my West
Wight Potter 19. I used the White EZ-Poxy. The hull area was cleaned with
Lacquer Thinner {using paper towels}, 'scuff sanded' with 400 grit
'Wet-or-Dry' paper, then cleaned again with the Lacquer Thinner. If memory
serves, I added a 'dash' of Penetrol to the paint {for improved 'flow-out'},
and used a simple foam brush. [NOTE - paint dried as smooth as the
surrounding gel-coat] After 'curing' {a few days}, a gentle compounding &
waxing of the hull completed the job. If I get within a foot of the hull, I
can see the demarcation of the area . . . by the VERY slight color
difference between the EZ-Poxy and the 14-year old gel coat.

This work was done OUTSIDE in typical ambient temperatures of a SE
Pennsylvania Spring. The only time I have had pieces of a brush getting in
paint/epoxy was when I used a cheap BLACK foam roller . . . which was broken
down by the SOLVENTS of the paint. I now use a Polyester {?} short-napped
roller for applying epoxy . . . which WILL be sanded by 60 grit paper or
have several other layers in it's 'schedule'. For 'Roll & Tip' painting I
use the WEST 'System' YELLOW rollers. While a bit more expensive, they are
of a 'very fine' foam, and quite impervious to the typical solvents. [NOTE -
they can be cleaned, 'spun dry' by the spinner, and re-used. But do
'segregate' your brushes, etc. - BOTH by 'solvent type' and also color {if
you use only a few on a consistent basis}.

One of the biggest 'trouble makers' has already been alluded to -
TEMPERATURE. If you have an OVER-ALL granularity in your finish, it is more
likely a temperature or application technique/tool selection problem then a
breakdown of the brush material. If you are doing a LARGE area {like an
entire hull, or even a side}that WHOLE area of MATERIAL must be close to
about 70 degrees F. It is a large 'heat sink' and may need a 'heat soak' of
24-hours or more. That temperature must be maintained for a period AFTER the
paint has been applied . . . for the paint film to at least 'skin over' and
any 'out-gassing' to occur. After that, the area may cool . . . but at a
slow rate. A SUDDEN drop will cause problems. This is one of the reasons
that the application of Varnish {or Paint, or Epoxy} is recommended ' . . .
no earlier than 10 AM or later than about 3PM '.

Any questions, or elaboration required, please drop me a line.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Gabe Silverman" wrote in message
om...
Thanks Mike, that was helpful - we'll give it a shot. We weren't
using foam rollers and I'm not sure what kind of brush we used either.

G