Thread: Changing oils
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: May 2007
Posts: 13,347
Default Changing oils

Tim wrote:
On Apr 15, 5:47 am, "Jim" wrote:
"John" wrote in message

...





"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
...
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.
The reason they get the name "Stealership".
Change the oil yourself! go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the
bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. If you have
a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the
bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it
runs SLOW! Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter
hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear
oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.
By all means get a manual!

Where did you get that outdrive fill procedure? It doesn't sound right to
me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I know it doesn't sound right, but it is. The lower end oil actually
fills from the bottom..up.

I know what Jim's saying about not doing an adiquate job with a
typical squeeze bottle, that's why I take the upper crown cap off to
make sure it's full.



Filling the lower unit up from the bottom drain hole has been the
recommended procedure for decades, at least on outboards. You pump the
oil in until it comes out the top hole. Seems logical it would be the
same on an I/O equipped with the same sort of oil fill holes.