"Mike" wrote in message
. net...
I think the OP was wondering if it was actually practical to pay the
extra for a deep cycle, or possibly not having deep cycle batteries
readily available.
from my experience, I think the OP would do fine with a couple car
jobs, myself.

I don't necessarily disagree. However I do find myself on the water often
with engines off, and tunes on (decent sound system)... far more than I do
in my truck. For that reason, I think a deep cycle *may* be worth the
extra money. YMMV.

--Mike

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 9:39 pm, "Mike" wrote:
That's how I have mine set up as well. Regular for starting, and deep
cycle
for everything else. Seems to work for me.

--Mike

"Eisboch" wrote in message

...





"Tim" wrote in message
...

Could be John. I have two bat. on my 23' marquis, just regular ol'
$29.95 L-cheapo's. one is the cabin bat. one is engine. through my
own design battery isolator, and unless the engine is running it
seperates both batteries.

running the 500w stereo, the wife's TV and I 've got 8 headlights
I've rigged on a pole for night swimming. I've run the cabin bat.
close to flat dead, and it recharges well. I really don't see any
need for a deep-cycle battery.

Evidently different engineers have different ideas.
I have my own ideas, but they don't listen to me.

Maybe for the better.

---------------------------

I've been seeing more and more batteries that are so-called
"combination",
meaning deep cycle/starting.

I always used one deep cycle as the "house" battery and a regular
battery
as the "start" battery.
If sitting at the dock or at anchor for an extended period of time with
the engine off, listening to the radio and/or watching the fish finder,
I'd switch over to the deep cycle.
When ready to start up, I'd switch to the "regular" or "both".

But, it's been a while since I had a boat set up this way. Things may
have changed over the years.

Eisboch- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think the OP was wondering if it was actually practical to pay the
extra for a deep cycle, or possibly not having deep cycle batteries
readily available.
from my experience, I think the OP would do fine with a couple car
jobs, myself.

Battery selection is a personal thing. Understanding what the
characteristics of each wet cell battery type can help you decide what you
want. Generally it is best to stick with one type if they are both going to
be charged with a single output alternator or charger. They will both
receive a fuller charge that way. Automotive batteries are designed to give
up spurts of high energy and recover quickly. Deep cycle batteries can
deliver lesser amounts of energy over a longer time period. Combination
batteries are a compromise between the other types. When you know which type
you want select which brand you want by weighing your potential selections.
Heavier is usually better.
The OP who designed the automatic combiner has the right idea. KISS rules.
No need to worry about switch positions. Diode combiners sort of do the same
thing as automatic combiners, BUT you lose one volt due to diode losses.
That's huge when you are talking battery capacity.
Surette has a nice tutorial on the web, if you want to know the science.