No code allows solder as the only means of physically attaching a wire. You
crimp the connetor first and then solder. I remove the plastic from crimp
connectors, crimp them on the wire, solder, and then cover with heat shrink
tubing. I have zero problems with them even years later.

I have seen old crimp connections where the voltage drop was over a volt.

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 09:20:35 -0500, jamesgangnc penned the following
well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

|Waterproof is a relative term. After years of exposure to moisture most
|"waterproof" things are not really all that waterproof. Many of the
|electrical problems I have seen on older boats is poor conductivity.
I've
|never encountered a broken wire that broke because it was soldered to a
lug.

I have and ABYC apparently has, as well, since they do not allow
solder as a sole means of connection.

ANCOR recommends crimping vs. soldering. Per ABYC standards
(E-11.16.3.7), "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical
connection in any circuit". Further, crimping provides a solid
mechanical connection resistant to "cold joints", breaking under
fatigue and removes strain when using ANCOR double crimp nylon
connectors."

The terminals are made to be attached to the wire by mechanical means.
If you are using tinned marine cable, and the proper terminal end and
crimper, there is no need to solder the connection.

Cite:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000625.html

Soldering is fine in any area where you can immobilize both sides of
the joint or where moisture and vibration are not a problem. If you
can't insure that, you are better off leaving the soldering iron in
the tool box.

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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