"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Joe got the the reply first and I heartily endorse the part where he says,
"NO, NO,NO".

I didn't think from your first post that you are on shorepower. If you
are, you should turn your shorepower on and off as well. The problem
could be something that has changed in your boat.

Given you apparent level of knowledge (no slight intended), I'm not sure
you should be hooking anything up to the marina electrical system guided
only by a newgroup, despite Joe's level of knowledge. That's why I
suggested a marine electrician.

Look in your boat for large green wires connecting all the metal parts
that touch salt water. Hook the fish to anything that is connected
directly to something that the green wires tie together. The engine
should be tied into this system so you can also just find a good
connection to the block as Joe suggests.

Since you might be able to get compensation from a defective boat as Joe
suggests, I would get a professional in. Nobody is going to believe you.

--
Roger Long

Another tale of woe involving electrolysis.

Our boat was equipped with an expensive folding prop made of bronze (Volvo).
The prop is made with a rubber shock absorber and is electrically isolated
from the rest of the boat and equipped with 3 small zincs.
The zincs would sometimes last 3 months - sometimes much less. The boat hull
also has a large zinc protecting the bronze thru-hulls. We are hooked up to
shorepower with a galvanic isolater. We had a marine electrician check out
the boat for stray voltage - and he did not find any around our boat.

The boat's previous owner had neglected to replace the 3 prop zinzs and when
we bought the boat some damage had been done to the prop with some pink
showing due to elctrolysis - we had the prop reconditioned and it lasted 4
years before it failed.

However, in spite of our best efforts - the prop eventually failed. Because
of our bad experience we decided to replace the folding bronze prop with a
Volvo aluminum prop.