If you don't ahve access to a hose clamp, but have a drill and bit
set, then take a 1/16th inch drill bit and drill down through the top
of the battery post. Shred off about an inch of insulation from the
wire, and if it's multi-strand, then twist the wire till it's similar
to a solid strand. Then go dig around till you find an apropriate
sized sheet metal screw, wrap the wire around the screw to make a good
loop, then proceed to tighten the sheet metal screw into the battery
post untill it tightened firmly. This procedure is aproved by a lot
of local citizen band radio technitions. Especially on older Ford,
f-250, and Chevy Chyanne 4 wd pickup trucks.


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:12:12 -0700, Tim wrote:

On Sep 23, 5:10 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:47:32 GMT, "Canuck57"

wrote:
Never solder cable subject to vibration. Just don't do it. Or you will
have to rework it in time, likely on the water. The strands will flex an
break, the insulation will degrade and when few strands are left the current
will burn the rest out. That is if the solder joint isn't cold or cracks.

In the installation we are discussing, solder will strengthen the
mechanical bond.

Even with a production level mechanical crimper, it is almost
impossible to prevent vibration from loosening the connectors.

Soldering prevents that. The only truly effective battery connection
is a molded lead/tin casting onto the cable and gues what...

That's the same effect as soldering.

Oh, c'mon man.
Use a top post battery, get a propper fitting hose clamp, put around
the battery post, Bare off about 1 inch of insullation, slide the bare
wires down betweent he hose clamp and the battery post. tighten tight.

That way you can always monitor the corrosion.

I know farmers who have the exact configuration on Super MTAs. :)

Any job worth doing is worth doing right!

Damn straight.