"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
Get some shrink tubing for the lugs.

Get some acid free soldering flux.

Never solder cable subject to vibration. Just don't do it. Or you will
have to rework it in time, likely on the water. The strands will flex an
break, the insulation will degrade and when few strands are left the current
will burn the rest out. That is if the solder joint isn't cold or cracks.

Always crimp such connections and not at the collar of the connector but in
the middle and towards the eyelet. This allows the strands to flex in an
arc and not a point at the collar of the crimp connector and allow flex
without breakage.

Gene Kerns advise above is good but I might add:

Stuff some small amount of axle or non-conducting grease into the shoulder
of the crimp connector after crimping. The idea is once the heat shrink has
shrunk a small amount will squeeze out and no air or moisture can get in.
Will last longer and not oxidize as fast.

The breaker size should be 5-20% larger than the peek current draw. Don't
put a 40 amp breaker on a 15 amp starter even if the wire can take more.
The breaker is as much to protect battery, wire and starter. Yes, as Gene
suggested if the run of wire is long, up the size a notch to compensate for
resistance. And use stranded marine grade.