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Frogwatch Frogwatch is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,163
Default Removing 3 bladed prop on an Alberg 35

On Aug 15, 4:40 am, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 02:45:36 GMT, Brian Whatcott



wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 23:00:14 -0400, Jonathan W
wrote:


I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able
to find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.....
At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the
rudder to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and
pull the prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )


I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

..
Jonathan Wye


There *IS* the Medieval option. Accomplished with a Sawzall upon the
defenseless rudder. Then made good with epoxy/glass, complete with
two inch set back for NEXT time :-)


Brian Whatcott Altus OK.


That is a point. The User's group listing says that the rudder is
solid mahogany....
Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)


I will defend my suggestion although it sounds impractical for the
Alberg. A coupler properly made, probably from SS about 1" ID larger
than the shaft with deep holes drilled and then milled to size will be
as well balanced as the original. A few barnacles on a prop would
produce a far greater imbalance.
I have been amazed at how my 3 bladed prop does not shake even though
it gets covered with barnacles. I hit a mast from a dismasted Laser
this past year and made a huge ding in one blade and it still turns
smoothly. This causes me to believe that it is alignment, not balance
that is most critical and a well made coupler would maintain that
alignment. Besides, you can always re-align the shaft (fairly easy on
my S2).