Amps, etc.
Skip Gundlach wrote:
We have as a target of never letting our batteries get below 75% - and
only rarely below 90%.
Trying to get the recharge above 90% will require a lot of time and
vaporize a lot of electrolyte.
Consider cycling between 70%-90%.
Much easier to accomplish with less wear and tear on the equipment.
Our solar and wind were calculated to provide somewhere between 150
low and 300 high AH/Day on average. Continuously cloudy (well,
raining - it was completely overcast here at 5 and we were still
getting 12A from the solar), windless days will throw that off, of
course. However, we watch that meter like a hawk, and having had a
bit of training about the interface of volts and amps as to what's
happening in there, believe we'll be better managers than before.
Not a fan of wind, far too much noise. Much prefer solar and so will
your neighbors in an anchorage.
Unless you can mount at least 100 sq ft of solar, you are still going
to need a good alternator.
Do yourself a favor.
Get a copy of the performance curve (AMP v RPM) for your unit and
check the output @ 3,000 alternator RPM.
This should be the "hot" not the "cold" rating curve.
If it is the "cold" rating, deduct 20%.
You can now get a handle on your energy audit.
Without an honest alternator output value, you are flying blind.
However, as backup, but aboard
for our use of power tools in strange countries, as well as our hookah
rig, we have a 2000w Honda much bruited about here on other
occasions. Were it necessary while on the hook, likely we'd start
that before the diesel, solely for charging.
No comment.
Keep in mind a dedicated 10W solar panel will keep the starting
battery charged.
No need to make life complicated.
Lew
|