On Jul 3, 8:58 am, "Brian" wrote:
Two thoughts that may even be related:

1. one of the folks at one the marinas I dive at has done a lot of
fiberglass work as a job. He said that the Git Rot product penetrates the
wood even when wet and drives the water out. He really liked the product.

2. When I was looking at the CPES I talked with one of the chemists at
System 3. He said that their low viscosity product penetrates as well or
better and provides about 3 times the coverage (perhaps the name of the
company?) because it is not thinned with solvents. I am aware that he
wanted to sell the product but it is something to think about.

Brian


I have met a half a dozen people that have told me horror stories of
doing CPES on the inside of their hull. I know my post was long, so to
condense it, Use the Boric Acid/Glycol solution first to kill any
spores that are or will be present. Seal the boric acid in with a
linseed oil compound that includes a biocide to keep mold from eating
it. I also added two hatches in the sole of the boat, in the saloon,
to keep it properly ventilated. This has been lots of work, but I am
hoping I have kept this 1949 boat working for another 30 years. Also,
this is the least toxic to humans that I could find.
I am going to try a bit of Tar heated to thin it, along the keel
strake. A boat restorer in Stewart Florida told me about this. He
restores old Trumpy's.

Now, when you find an old wooden boat with the battens curled up away
from the hull, how do you folks put them back? I cut kerfs in many
places and then clamped it back and glued it. Now that the glue has
set up I was going to epoxy that batten into the kerfs so that rot
will not set in. Any other methods out there? These battens are an
inch thick. Steaming them in place? I can't picture how to do that!