On Jul 1, 9:24 pm, frank1492 wrote:
I had no time to wait for the JB Weld to cure. My solution was a
combined approach- sheet metal screw with rubber washer, then
a sploch of Bondo over the rotted area, then 4X6 fiberglass cloth
with resin. So far so good.
Thanks all for your advice!
Frank

On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 02:51:11 GMT, frank1492
wrote:



Ed-
Do you mean just to use the fiberglass mat without fiberglass
resin, and to use the JB Weld in place of the resin????
Frank

On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 20:34:18 -0400, Ed wrote:

The screw sounds easy!!! Use a rubber washer as well.
If is it larger, I have had luck with Marinetex. The key is CLEAN
oiless sanded work space... Cover with marinetex about 4 times the size
of the patch area... cover with fiberglass mat, cover with more
marinetex. JB weld can also work. Again.. patch it once with the
chemical, cover with with glass matt and recover with more chemical.

Jim wrote:
If it's a pinhole, put a screw in it.
"frank1492" wrote in message
...

I have an '88 Grady White with a 4.3L OMC Cobra (I believe
this is a Chevy Engine- 6 cyl.) The pan has developed a leak
right on time for the holidays and I have no chance of getting
it replaced now.
The hole area appears to be at the end of the engine facing
aft and is accessable. I am tempted to drain all the oil out, sand
the area well and try a fiberglass patch. Any chance this will
work?
Or how about JB weld?
Thanks. Frank.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I wouldn't risk screwing the engine up by doing anything but an oil
pan change. I know it's not easy, but with one of those shop mirrors
you should be able to see the bolts, I'd use a fair amount of sealant,
and paint the pan well before installing it.

Good luck

John