You need a compression tester which is available at any auto parts store
or Sears. Get the type you screw into the spark plug hole, not the kind
that looks like a marital aid. Make sure to remove all the plugs before
you start and block the throttle and choke wide open. If you are lucky,
you will find low compression in the cylinder near the water leak and end
up replacing a head gasket.

Tim Tisdale wrote:

I really want to thank everybody who responded to this problem. You
guys are good people. To answer a couple of questions, I really didn't
find any water on the back of the engine when I removed the cover. It
seems when the engine is running at higher RPMs, the leak is hardly
there if at all. It seems to leak the most at idle. I checked the
timing and it's at 8 BTDC. Does fuel add to the carbs 1 jet at a time
as you increase RPMs? I noticed that the left jet on the 4 barrel is
putting out more gas than the right jet but that was only running at
around 1200 RPMs. If I goose the motor in Neutral, It seems to sound
o.k. but I think that's probably not an accurate test. What kind of
tool do I need to do a compression test? If a Cylinder is low on a
compression test, does that mean big money?

Thanks guys.

TT