You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

Aww, give Charlie-Krusty a break. He's trying to be nice, he's just
not very good at it (hardly surprising).

Charlie Morgan wrote,
On many boats, you either have to cut off the splice/shackle end or
use a messenger wire from the other direction.

How much voltage do you recommend using on that messenger wire,
Krustie?

In any event cutting a perfectly good splice is not something I'm very
quick to do. It wastes line & the time spent making the splice.

Jeff wrote:
There can certainly be a variety of different setups. However, this
touches on an interesting question: Which is better, splicing on the
shackle, or tying it?

Depends on the configuration at the truck. Is the head of the sail a
bit below the sheave? Does the sheave protrude very slightly to give a
fair lead straight down the luff of the sail? How long is the backstay
crane (or there may not even be a standing backstay)? How important is
it to be able to remove the shackle, and how important is it to get
every fraction of an inch in hoist?

In racing boats, I like the halyard on a splice. Generally tolerances
are tighter and there's a better lead from the sheave.

My preference is for tying, using a stunsail
tackbend (buntline hitch) which will cinch down on the shackle and
hold it tight. The knot takes up little space, while a splice could
potentially get jammed in the sheave. Also, with a knot its easy to
"end for end" periodically.

So is a splice if you don't mind cutting it

Good knot suggestion. Much better than a bowline, which can get jammed
in the sheave easier than a splice and also will torque the headboard
to one side or the other.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King