You should look at the float bowl vent tube on the old carb. Often on boats
they are shaped like an upsidedown J rather than a straight tube. This
causes the fuel to go down the throat of the carb if the float gets stuck.
Instead of spilling around the intake. If you can swap the vent tube that
would be good. Occasionally marine carbs have o-rings on the throttle shaft
as well to further limit fuel leaking but that is not so common. My holley
is a marine carb but the only difference is the J tubes, it does not have
o-rings on the shafts. Also any rubber fuel lines you use should be from
your local boat store. All rubber fuel lines for boats are double walled.
The thing with gas and boats is that if it leaks anywhere the gas vapors
will collect in the bottom of the hull. Then a spark and kaboom. I'm not
surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that
makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior.

You'll probably want to get another shifter plate. That whole shift
mechanism is a real rube goildburg on mercs. It uses the tension on the
cable housing to activate the stall switches. This momentarily stalls the
ignition so it will come out of gear. Yiou can tell when it's not working
right as the boat will be almost impossible to get out of gear. Usually you
pull so hard that when it finally comes out it goes into the opposite gear.
You have to be in the water to check as on land it will shift fine without
the interupt working. The gears are designed so that the pressure against
the prop causes them to want to stay engaged. Also important that the shift
cable housing be free to move, not wiretied or otherwise fastened at the
engine end except where it is mounted to that plate. It can be real finicky
to get working and having the plate broken will just make it harder. You
could fabricate one if you're really into that sort of thing. If you search
online you will find that there are a number of boat salvage places that
sell used parts.

"Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote in message
news:6ddfad6d9bcb4@uwe...
I should have explained this thing is a long term project. It was all
siezed
up due to the engine not being covered. The guy who tried to fix it was a
mechanical moron with even less electronics/electrical experience. The
wiring loom engine and to the panel was totally fried and I have had to
rewire 80% of this thing. It it not wrotten anywhere and the interior was
all in good shape so that is why I have been spending time on it. The
motor
now runs like a sewing machine with good compression. What I did have to
do
was swop the carb with a van carb since it was corroded completely. My
intention was to make a good one out the the original body and the levers
etc
from the van carb - but it seems to and run well with the van carb....
I have had to rebuild the remote motor control - it was siezed up too.
The
plate on the back that covers the gearing in the control and holds the two
cables was broken. I am looking for a new one - any ideas? As a
temporary
measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the
put
an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel.
Am I making stupid assumptions?
Additionally, I have made an engine alignment to so the
crank/adaptor/stern
shaft are all aligned well - within about 2mm in straight line and in
height -
am I correct with that?
Thanks to you all for your "expert" advice.

Bennie wrote:
Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running
while
OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to
either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it
only
feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all.
Thanks.

Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need
to
cool the stern leg?
I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics
guy -
planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!!

I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked
out
a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine
version though.
Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief!

When ign switch is off - no fuel....

[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]

Eisboch

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