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Andrew Butchart Andrew Butchart is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 20
Default Very small deck plates


"Frogwatch" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 14, 11:36 am, "Andrew Butchart" wrote:
"Frogwatch" wrote in message

oups.com...

snip
On my MiniCup, I used standard drain plugs like these that are available
fromhttp://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/plumbing/sd520010-20/index.htmor
West Marine etc.

In the years that I had the boat, which included the cockpit being filled
with water several times, I never had anything drain out of the chambers.

Andrew B




Andrew:

I thought about using these but where to put them. If I put em on
deck, I'd tend to sit on em, uncomfortable. If I put em inside the
cockpit, they'd have to go through the stringers at the base of the
cockpit.
I did get water in the side compartments just due to cracking of weak
joints over time. I am fairly certain I have solved that problem
after glassing the whole boat but I'd really like to be sure. On this
boat, I had rotting of the forward compartments due to water getting
in from the mast step. The back compartment was dry. Now both front
and back compartments have 4" deck plates and I have rebuilt the mast
step to be very solid.

David


The side bulkheads are more for structural purposes than to provide any real
amount of floatation. If I remember correctly, I installed the drain plugs
on the tops of the bulkhead reasoning that turning the boat on it's side
would allow them to empty them. I was actually more concerned about
allowing for air expansion in the sealed chamber than about water.

Since these chambers don't provide much floatation and there is lots already
in the boat, you may want to consider cutting a large oval out and
re-inforcing it from behind with a nother piece of ply. Keep the original
piece and use it to cover up the hole keeping it in place with a pair of
butterfly nuts (I just cut the butterfly shape out of 1/4" plywood and use a
screw to attach it). I found my jigsaw worked well if I tilted it up before
starting, the slowly lowered it down onto the piece. This prevented me from
having to drill a starting hole.

This provides you with a storage space and an easy access for repairs. It's
not water-tight but you've got lots of floatation already. The doubled
thickness of plywood should replace the structure you are taking away with
the hole.

Here's a similar setup that I used on the Weekender that I'm building -
http://www.floatingbear.ca/sailingfi...der/Seats6.jpg

AndrewB