I am making some practice runs of teak/holly sole panels using 1/4"x 1 3/4"
teak and real holly ($$$) milled 3/16 x 9/32 so the holly stands slightly
proud. Substrate is 13mm meranti. Vacuum bagging holds everything flat but
I am having a little trouble keeping the seams closed up. I have been
cutting the substrate 1" over size then laying a 3/4" strip of scrap on
either side of the teak. Once the bag is pulled down about half way I clamp
across until the scrap meets the substrate. A side advantage is that if I
apply the epoxy only to the substrate the bag squeezes out a little excess
between the strips and the clamping then brings it up the edge with minimum
excess on the surface. This works about 90% of the time but if I don't
estimate the overlap just right it can leave a slightly open seam. Any
suggestions?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"...Ken" wrote in message
news:0IaAh.961918$R63.405670@pd7urf1no...
Most teak and holly decks are not holly, but usually teak and maple.

Maple is quite fine as a holly substitute, as true (clear) holly is now
almost impossible to obtain. There are some qualities of maple used for
pool cues that are graded for their whiteness and straightness of grain if
you are seeking perfection in a holly substitute.

To lay your own teak and 'holly' deck, I would suggest that you use 1/4"
plywood to adhere your teak and maple strips onto first . The holly/maple
will be only 3/16" x 3/16" so it requires some fiddling and clamping .
Build up panel sections approximately 24 inches (+ -) by the length of
your project, with added length for trim. When these panels are completed
and the adhesive is well cured you can then lay them out in place on your
sole, trim them to fit and then adhere the panels to your existing deck
using sand bags or concrete blocks to hold the panels down until they
cure.

In my opinion.....do not use epoxy on teak decks for any teak decking
thicker than 1/8".

In my opinion...Sikaflex www.sika.com and Teak Decking Systems
www.teakdecking.com adhesives are the better products available for teak
decks.

Be sure that your caulking adhesive has a UV light inhibitor.

When it comes to that 'break bond' strip in the caulking groove it has
become proven over time that it is beneficial when decking thickness is
1/4 " or greater. Most teak decking data comes from teak deck performance
on cruise ships. Cruise ships usually only last 30 years before they are
scrapped for the steel and those teak decks have offered up a wealth of
information on the performance of adhesives and bonding to teak decking
over time and adverse weather conditions.

A previous poster was concerned about whether to use a breakbond strip
when he had epoxy overflow in the caulking gap. I believe that he had 1/4"
teak decking. In that situation I would not bother with the breakbond
strip as most adhesives would break free from the smooth epoxy surface
prior to breaking free from the rougher teak surfaces.

However, it has been found that when you have a three sided bonded surface
(with potential movement) that the adhesive join is compromised. A two
sided bonded join (with potential movement) is superior.

Regarding that faux teak/holly plywood.........great for a floating
motorhome.



Ken Chaytor / Island Teak www.island-teak.com