Thread
:
Continuos Duty Bilge Blowers
View Single Post
#
25
Terry Spragg
Posts: n/a
Continuos Duty Bilge Blowers
wrote:
I'm tired of replacing my bilge blowers, as these Atwood Continuous
Duty (continuous duty in a pigs eye), inline blowers only last one
season before they start squealing.
I probably use my blowers more than the average Joe, so I need a
blower that offers real, and reliable continuous duty.
I looked at this one, and it does look much more durable than the
little plastic inline blowers, but the motor doesn't look like it
would tolerate a salt environment, though I could be wrong.
http://www.greatoutdoors.com/go/prod...er/amback.com/
Any other recommendations?
Use the blower for safety before starting your explosion machine.
After it starts, it will suck air much faster than any vent fan can.
Turn it off. Do not pressurize the engine compartment, especially
if you have a leaky exhaust. Not that you could, you'd need a 50 hp
fan known on the drag strip as a blower or supercharger. Engine air
inducement might be conducted by deck vent. If too tightly sealed,
exhaust could accumulate in the engine compartment. A flame arrestor
metal filter grille on an engine room exhaust vent driven by engine
vacuum seems a good idea, needing only a vent into the engine
combustion intake. A sufficiently strong "Intake air leak" will
evacuate any but the most catastophic exhaust leak into the engine
compartment. Engine air intakes are noisy, and require a dust
filter, so go a little further and build an intake muffler filter
box. Place any such vent as high as possible in the engine
compartment, in case of flooding. Provide a watertigh closure for
submerged running, if you are fitting a schnorkel.
Use the leakage of air into the engine compartment as a cabin heat
circulation function, for instance, by placing the hot water
radiator in the bow. Fresh ventilation air could be drawn through a
heat exchanger incorperated into the engine compartment ventilation
/ combustion air intake filter, to improve efficiency in the heating
system. The heat exchanger might accept cold water for air
conditioning, which could be cooled by a keel radiator pipe. When
it's 130 (F) out, sea water temperature air will be blessedly cool
by comparison, and won't eat up much power.
Some will say you should try to be safer with a tight engine box.
Don't ever depend on a tight engine box alone for protection from
fumes and fire.
Terry K
Reply With Quote