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Rich Hampel Rich Hampel is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 95
Default Boat for single hander

Simple question .... do you 'really' know how to 'shape' your sails?

Most helm problems are more due to poorly shaped sails than (mast rake,
or rudder shape), etc.

If you simply 'raise' the sails into position and then NOT stretch out
the luff 'preload' that the sailmaker originallly put into the sail
then you WILL get especially weather helm. Especially sail with
'boltropes' .... a three strand rope enclosed in a sleeve at the luff
of the sail, you need to remove the 'preload' to get a sail to 'set'
properly. Most kroozers have absolutely NO idea that a sail must be
'stretched' on the luff to offset the preload.
A simple 'rule of thumb' is that a boltroped sail MUST be additionally
stretched on its luff by 1 inch for every 10 ft. of luff length so that
the 'shape' is proper at the maximum design wind range (usually 15-16
knots) or...... the sail's posiition of maxium draft will be too far
aft, the leech will be hooked to windward, and the sail will be 'too
full' .... and these ALL contribute to adverse weather helm.

If you have adverse weather helm, simply go forward and keep tensioning
the HALYARD until the boat has a balanced helm, then slightly loosen so
that the rudder needs only 2-3 degrees of offset (rudder angles ever so
slightly to leeward) to hold the course. If you are intending
absolute 'speed sailing' then leave the rudder with NO helm ... but the
boat then will NOT head up if you let go of the helm.

You can almost always tell that a kroozer has no idea of how to 'shape'
a sail .... their booms are always lower at the aft end .... because
they NEVER properly stretch out the luff of the mainsail to counteract
the original 'preload' that the sailmaker put into a sail. The preload
is there so that all the stress at the maximum designed wind load is
taken up by the ROPE instead of the sailcloth.

Put some 'strain' into that halyard and see what magically happens
!!!!!!! Try 'stretching outy the luff' with heavy halyard tension and
see what happens to your 'helm' .... and before you start modifying the
rudder, etc. Dont exceed 1" of additional strain for every 10 ft. of
luff length. If that procedure doesnt solve most of your 'helm
problems' consider to take the sail to a sailmaker and have the
boltrope "eased" .... as ALL boltropes SHRINK over time. If yours is
an OLD sail that has seen many hours of service, then also think about
getting that shrunken bolt rope readjusted. If you are handy with a
sailmakers needle and palm let me know as I will give instructions on
how to properly 'ease' the boltrope.


Hope this helps.


In article , Jere
Lull wrote:

In article . com,
"Terry K" wrote:

My short bilge keel setup seems to have a mind of it's own, the rudder
is overbalanced in all conditions, she veers as soon as you let go.

Perhaps I should shave the leading edge of the rudder, or stick on a
tail?


That would make it worse. Our original rudder was *very* heavy and gave
me a good work out in even moderate conditions. I built a new thinner
one, with the leading edge about 20% ahead of the pintles and now have a
very light helm.

Re-reading: If she veers when you're close hauled, you probably have
the main sheeted in too hard. Ease out until the efforts are balanced
out. Even our Xan, who has basically zero directional stability, will
hold close hauled on her own for a while.