I just went through this sat morn, 1 1/2hours on my '70 Blazer w/4bbl
Rochester. It was "loading up" more and more frequently, wouldn't idle.
The other day it died and gas was pouring out of it. I bought a rebuild
kit $12.99, float $5.99 and filter from AutoZone. I only removed the top,
blotted the gas out of the bowl with paper towels, vacuumed the crud out of
the bottom, noticed the viton tip on the old needle looked grooved. Also,
the old filter was the "sintered bronze" and the rubber seal on one end was
deteriorated, probably allowing crud to pass through. Float seemed OK but
replaced it anyway and also replaced the accelerator pump. Engine ('98,
350, 300hp crate motor) now runs like a top!
I don't know if these are the same carbs or not but probably the same or
very close. I'd get the # off the carb and try the autoparts first.
LD

"Bowgus" wrote in message
s.com...
I may pull the air horn and check out the inlet needle and seat ($11.00)
and
the float ($23.00). But what I'm gonna try first is a shut off valve so
that
when the problem occurs, I can shut off the fuel, burn off what's in the
carb, then turn on the fuel again ... the plan being that the incoming
fuel
will clear the seat if there's something there or free the float if it's
stuck. I prefer not to rebuild since I don't need to and since normally
the
carb runs just fine ... idle, primaries, secondaries, power ... there's
always the risk that a new problem will be introduced.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
nk.net...
Pouring cleaner down the throat does nada for anything inside the bowls.
Rochester carbs had a foam float in some that did sink with age. Pull
the
top off, or take it to a carb shop. About $60-100 for a clean and
rebuild.
Bill

"Butch Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
Geez... run a can of carb cleaner through the darn thing. First
slowly
pour
or spray some cleaner into the throat while the engine is running at
high
idle. Don't use too much or you'll kill the engine. Next add a can
or
two
to your fuel tank. Hopefully the level in the tank is just above
empty.

You do have a filter which gets a new element every season, right?
You
also
use a good dose of Store-N-Start at the end of each season, right?

If, as seems likely, the problem is varnish in the carb the cleaner
should
solve the problem. If it is debris you'll almot certainly have to
open
the
float chamber to solve the problem. However, there is a chance that
you
can
remove the fuel line from the carb and spray some cleaner into the
float
chamber right at the float valve.

Also possible, though unusual, is a float which will no longer float
due
to
a leak. Also requires disassembly.

Try the easy stuff.... it often works. Good luck.

Butch Davis
"Rich" wrote in message
news There is no way to fix it without taking the top off. Sounds like
you
need
a new needle and seat, maybe float too.

Rich

"Bowgus" wrote in message
rs.com...
V6 3.8 litre I/O with Rochester 4 bbl

I am now confident that the problem that has been plaguing me the
past
few
seasons is a sticking fuel float ... sticking meaning not stopping
the
fuel
flow. Yesterday I started the boat up in the laneway, it would not
idle,
had
to keep the throttle open a bit to prevent stalling, shut the
engine
off,
had fuel overflow coming out both sides of the carb until the fuel
pressure
dropped (mechanical pump) ... which is basically what happened
maybe
3
times
last season (but I did not notice the fuel overflow) and which
would
eventually clear itself.

So, today as I was about to remove the carb, thought I'd try again
...
well,
it started right up, idled fine, all ok.

So here's the thing ... I do not really want to dismantle that old
Rochester
4 bbl if I can possibly avoid doing so. Has anyone had the same
problem?
Was
there an easy solution? Maybe pour in the carb cleaner and let
soak
overnight kind of thing?

Thanks.

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