Hi, Wayne, and thanks for the lengthy response.
Wayne.B wrote:
There has been a big ongoing debate on one of the trawler lists
regarding this question. Most engine manufacturers, including
Cummings and Cat, are recommending 10 micron elements in the Racors
followed by a 2 micron engine mounted filter. Since the engine
mounted filter is frequently much more difficult to change, some have
advocated 2 micron elements in the Racors on the assumption that the
engine mounted filters would then last more or less indefinitely. The
manufacturers have countered that the engine mounted filter should be
changed on its recommended schedule regardless. I have come full
circle and gone back to 10 micron elements in the Racors.
Although you sound like you've done all the right things, I'd offer
one word of caution. Fuel problems often do not occur until the boat
starts moving around and stirs up sediment accumulated in the bottom
of the tank. This is almost impossible to address with dock side
polishing so I'd recommend extra filter and vacuum guage vigilance the
first few times you go out, especially in rough conditions. If you
can run your polishing system while underway in rough conditions, that
should speed the cleaning process. Don't forget to use a good fuel
conditioner in the recommended quantities. I've been using mostly
Biobor and it seems to work.
I'd commented many times privately, but forgot to include it in my note
here, that I was hoping for some really snotty sailing in our sea
trials, during which time the polisher would be running all the time,
for just that reason. As little as it draws, likely I'll be running it
non-stop during nearly any of our sailing. Unlike another poster in
one of the threads I researched, I'll not have it connected to the
ignition but rather maintain the ability to control it separately, but
expect to have it operating any time the engine's turning, as the
alternator will keep up with whatever draw is happening.
Regarding your other question on filter changes and filling the Racor
cannister with fuel; it depends on the boat. If your tanks are below
the level of the Racors, then you will need some way of topping off
the filters after you change out the element. On my boat the tanks
are higher so it is not a problem. I just crack open the inlet valve
while watching the fuel level in the cannister.
My filters are about 2' above the tank, unfortunately. Thus the
question about using the priming pump as filler. Certainly, it would
suck the fuel, if the top was closed - but I don't know if that would
just leave some air in the top, or if that air would be sucked into the
system. With the priming pump before the filters, I could fill the
canisters before closing them, and *then* do the prime sequence if
needed. Of course, if I'm changing by just shutting/changing the
valve, going to the other filter, the lines would stay full, and the
only thing I'd be dealing with would be the racors.
I *do* have the polishing filters equipped with drain valves, so could
draw fuel from those to fill the Racor in question. However, I'd have
to hope I got the right amount, so I wouldn't have to deal with any
excess or shortage. Hm. Looks like I'll be re-mounting the pump
upstream of the Racors...
Or, any reason not to??
More "hmmm..." - perhaps I could put a line on the end of the 10micron
polishing filter valve, mounted above the Racors (see the November
gallery) and use that as my fill medium. That might solve both
problems...
Thanks...
L8R
Skip, back to the engine room in the cold rainy weather (had to put on
jeans, today!)
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
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