Replying to my own post so as to keep it in the right chain order for
those with threaded readers...
While it's not yet to the 90 cited in the original, the expected has
happened - a few users have contributed, and the rest tell us why they
think it won't work, or why someone who's had success can't properly
attribute it to Algae-X.
Mostly heat and not much light, of course. Somewhere, someone
mentioned a PS test of the product, but I have no access to it - does
anyone here, and want to post it?
Meanwhile, I've also put the same question to several sailnet mailing
lists and have gotten a much smaller sample, mostly of users. One who
isn't, yet, but will be, and my response, and additional commentary,
are below:
From: "Danny Crump"
To: columbia
Subject: [columbia] Algae-X
Date: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 7:45 AM
Here's my understanding of the diesel fuel productology (not to be
confused with proctology):
1) Algae-X has no effect on critters in the tank. (It does not
explode algae as it passes by the magnet)
2) Algae-X has no effect on gasoline.
3) Algae-X is not needed in any system the uses fuel in a rapid
manner. (ie fuel is refined on Monday, shipped to the supplier on
Tuesday, sold on Wednesday, and consumed on Thursday.)
4) Algae-X is effective at converting asphalt and tar (long chain
carbon sludge) that forms in diesel fuel which sits for extended
periods of time.
5) Algae-X should be placed between the tank and the primary filter.
6) I will install Algae-X on my new-to-me Endeavour 37 based on the
WHAT-THE-HELL-IT-CAN'T-HURT PRINCIPLE.
7) The most effective diesel cleaning/polishing system is opening
the tank through an inspection port, pumping out and disposing of the
old fuel, cleaning the bottom of the tank to remove all the settlins'
and refilling with fresh fuel. This system is scientifically proven
to work every time.
8) Preventative measure #1. I am removing the fuel fill line from
the deck fitting and rerouting it to inside a locker. My rationale
is that the fuel fitting is protected from rain water intrusion
should the boat develop a poorly sealed cap. NOTE: SURVEYORS DON'T
LIKE THIS!!! YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO REROUTE THE FILL HOSE AT SALE
TIME!!!
9) Preventative measure #2. Fabricate a "H" shaped moisture filter
from 1" PVC and place it in-line with the tank vent. Fill the filter
with descant to prevent moisture intrusion from the vent
line. Change the descant on a regular PM schedule. If you need
instructions I think I have a photo somewhere and will E-mail it.
10) Use Kolor Kit water detecting paste regularly to check for water
intrusion into your fuel tank. Industrial hardware suppliers in
petro-chemical areas usually stock this paste. Also, most gasoline
tanker trucks carry the paste. If nothing else find a driver
dropping fuel at a service station and ask him for a small bit of the
paste (bring your own container).
-Danny Crump-
and my response:
#4 is the only reason I'd install it, as I will have a fuel polishing
system and dual racors (to change on the fly) when I finish, and I
expect
that my tank will take a very long time to empty, if we're able to
stick to
our guns in our anticipated use. I like the thought of recovering the
otherwise lost energy. Unfortunately, it seems that the only way this
works
is to have multiple passes, all of which should be going through
filters if
you do it like they suggest in their presentation. If the filter takes
out
the sludge, there's no proof that Algae-X did anything to enhance the
quality of the fuel. If it doesn't, the engine stops...
However, there's very little empirical proof of #4 - and none that I
have
seen which would pass the smell test for any documentation vs small
sample
or conjecture by users vs labs - so I'm still considering, vs buying.
However, I would like to see the desiccant chamber you describe -
thanks.
(end of my reply to Columbia)
Going further, I don't disagree with any of the non-user postulations
here (RBC/B) - but it doesn't address the question of actual use and
either failure or success, and on what basis that analysis is reached.
I'm not the engineer that Roger is, but I tend toward requiring the
level of proof that one would if buying something not widely proven or
understood. Those who followed (as one example) my expected use of a
drive saver, and the discussion and interchange following that post
(asking exactly the same question - who's used these, particularly
while having their drive saved, and with what result?), and my
subsequent migration to *not* using that, even though I had one offered
to me for free, would know my empirical nature.
And, I think part of the problem WRT getting to the bottom of it is
that the product doesn't carry a name which fits with their
presentation - something which breaks up carbon fuel solids, not that
kills algae or separates clumps of dead ones. In fact, their
presentation strongly recommended against biocides, claiming that if
they aren't clumped, but alive and swimming, they'd pass through the
filters' smallest iteration, and burn, harmlessly.
Yet, one of the endorsements I cited (which I can't put my hands on,
but it's in the company stuff, I'm pretty sure, as opposed to being in
the Google I did before my post) had a known contaminated sample of
fuel, confirmed biogrowth at the beginning, runs through the unit only
(no filter) for several passes, and no sludge or biogrowth following
the (very small sample) test. It's this sort of thing, but on a much
larger scale, and with some nationally or industry-related test unit,
which would be useful to me.
In the presentation given by the vendor, they noted that the usual
diesel engine returns 75-80% of the fuel pumped to it, unused, to the
tank. They say that to work the unit needs a minimum of 3-4 passes -
that is, the tank should be cycled 3-4 times before it's "treated" -
but if there are filters in the line (as there should be), that
wouldn't be far off polishing in the usual sense of the word. That is,
if you have a 100 gallon tank, by the time you've used 25 gallons,
generally, your tank will be polished, in their terms. Of course, if
you started with garbage in the tank, likely you'll have removed it
with the filters (or the unit, but who could tell?) by that time, as
well. Yet, their files, and some of my responses, are full of very
reduced filter changes, and in the case of large users with what I
presume to be very high volume use, notably lengthened injector service
intervals.
As stated earlier, I wasn't here (this thread) with my mind made up to
buy, but instead with a healthy skepticism looking for real-life
experiences (from someone not on the company website - there's lots of
it there), particularly WRT documentation that it *doesn't* work.
Anyone can loudly say that a fisherman anchor won't work in general
use, but unless they can point to PS tests (even then not all that
scientific), or their own use where it failed, all one gets from the
exercise is someone else ranting. OTOH, one may say that a Spade or
Bulwagga is pure bull hockey, but have not only many users compare
their use to their prior installation, but point to PS tests (flawed as
they may be), or Glenn's real-world BVI tests with boats instead of
winches, with real ocean vs beaches.
Absent such interest on the part of the usual cruiser/boater testing
units, I rely on the kindness of strangers, so to speak (channeling
Blanche, here), being very sure to extend my own kindnesses where I
may, and, in particular, not providing opinion, but instead experience
and/or citations where available.
So, who's used these, and what were the results?? And, of course,
thanks to those users who have contributed so far.
L8R
Skip
Morgan 461 #2
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