If the PVC glue connection fails, it is probably because of poor technique
or using the wrong glue for the make of pipe you have. Read the directions
on the can and follow them and the joints will be as strong or stronger than
the pipe itself. I just took apart a 10 year old rolling clothes hamper made
of reinforced 3/4" PVC, and all but one joint (of about 36) could not be
broken before failure of the pipe itself.



If you are working in cold temperatures or there is moisture condensing on
the pipe while gluing, you may have difficulty getting a solid joint, so
practice and test some pieces that have hardened overnight.



To keep sagging down, inject a little expanding insulating foam into each
end of the tube before gluing; use the ridged gap filling type, not the
flexible type used for insulating around doors. You can also insert a dowel
in long spans to add rigidity. A 3/4" square beam of wood with a little foam
on it arranged on the diagonal and running from joint-to-joint can be quite
strong for its weight.



Use acetone to wipe the pipe down and remove the factory printing. Paint it
with lacquer or other solvent based paints or stains to make it look cool.



And finally, please, don't risk your life or someone else's by overloading
anything on top of a moving vehicle; the roadway is littered with such
results.



Good luck!


"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
In my garage, I've got this wooden rack - made out of 2x4's. Basically
two
goalposts connected and on wheels with a couple extra crossbars.

Needs tb a few inches wider to accommodate a new toy.

I'm thinking something like 2 or 3-inch PVC pipe would be easier to look
at.

I *think* I could make it work with regular plumbing fittings and some
wire
rope/cable tensioners in an X pattern on the sides to stabilize it.

Anybody been here? Caveats? Maybe special fittings for rack
construction?
Pipe size?
--
PeteCresswell