i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne