Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
JimH wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.


Thanks!

I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.

Thanks again for your advice and comments. ;-)



That seems like a wide range of temperatures for a fresh water cooled
engine. Did you mention the wide range of temp. to your mechanic?

--
Reggie

That's my story and I am sticking to it!

Give it up Reggie. Then understand this message..........as I told you
before I would never consider any boating or mechanical advice you
offer. You have chosen to keep quiet about your boating background,
the boat you own, where you boat, amongst other things. For all I know
the only boat you own is the one you take a bath with.

Try opening up and folks might start listening to you. Until then,
please stop cluttering up this thread.