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Lew Hodgett Lew Hodgett is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 348
Default WaterWheel Product Manufacturing, Sealing & Finishing

Somebody wrote:

I posted here previously and received some extremely helpful advice so
I'm back for more ;-)

I just started to build Water Wheels and sell them. However, I am no
expert at using epoxy and various protective finishers & Sealers for
Wood. I use 3/4 inch Marine Plywood for my Water Wheels (with 12mm
Marine Ply used for Water buckets).

Once the Water Wheel is completed and assembled, I then...

- apply the epoxy first against the bare wood (encapsulating the
product in 2 coats of epoxy)
- wash and sand the epoxy coat to get rid of the water soluable Amine
and ensure the epoxy will bond to the primer coat
- apply 1 Marine grade primer paint
- apply 1 Marine grade color topcoat
- apply another topcost of a differnt color to the sides of the wheel
via a design template



[Optional]:- then finish it with a UV resistant varnish to avoid
sunlight epoxy degradation.


As others has suggested, marine plywood is totally unnecessary.

If this were my project, I'd use cabinet grade birch ply with exterior
glue, cut and assemble all parts using any descent epoxy.

This plywood comes in 13 ply (3/4) and 9 ply (1/2), and is a pleasure
to use for fabrication, and a lot less expensive than marine ply.

Since you are using small quanties, check out West Systems if you need
a source.

Once assembled, shoot with 2 coats of high build epoxy primer.

(I shoot egg shell followed by light blue)

This is a VOC based product and is totally different than laminating
resin.

Sometimes used as a "tank resin" to line the inside of tanks.

It provides a surface that is very hard and tough.

You now have encapuslated the wood and given yourself a primed surface
ready for painting with a marine paint of choice. (I'd use L/P).

HTH

Lew