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posted to rec.boats.electronics
chuck
 
Posts: n/a
Default Windlass Wiring Question

Don Mahony wrote:
I was considering this option as the price is a lot lower than marine
grade and my son is in the car sudio business. Have you or anyone else
actually used this wire in this application?

Don

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 13:54:38 -0400, Larry wrote:

Don Mahony wrote in
:

The total run from the battery to the windlass and return is 72 feet.


Precisely why the wire is #4 for the long run. #10 is fine for very short
distances, like inside the windlass.

Shhh....don't tell anyone I told you this....#4 wire from the car stereo
shop, or even #2, is LOTS cheaper and works just great!

400% profit doesn't make it work better....(c;

Also try welding cables, which come in these smaller sizes #2 and #4.

Tell your yachtie friends you only used the most expensive "marine grade"
wire from the finest chandlers on the planet....so they don't snub you on
the dock.


As conductors, marine grade and
non-marine grade wires are generally
indistinguishable. Some of the
differences are temperature rating,
flexibility (i.e., number of strands),
type of insulation (e.g., imperviousness
to chemicals such as gasoline and diesel
fuels), and most importantly, tin
plating. Marine wire is tin plated
because it is widely thought that it is
less corrosive in a marine environment
than unplated copper wire.

I have not yet encountered a judgment
that unplated wire is better. You might
want to do a search on Google Groups on
the subject. The issue has been
discussed before.

Can't say anything about speaker cable,
but I believe some automotive cables are
tin plated. They still don't match
marine wire specs but some boaters have
been satisfied with them.

Chuck

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