350 V8 penta engine full of water after winter (Won't move)
Tom Dacon wrote:
On rereading you original post, I see that you said it was the distributor
mount that took the water (I misread it as carburetor, for some reason, and
may have jumped to a conclusion). So the cylinder business might not apply,
and it might be easier than I thought. I don't know your engine, but if you
can expose the geartrain that drives the distributor, you might find that
the damage is limited to that area. If the distributor is at the front of
the engine, the timing gear cover may expose it. If the distributor drives
off the camshaft, which it usually does, you will probably have rust on the
camshaft down in the camshaft bushings - that'd freeze the camshaft - and
might have to pull it and do some work on it. Then just look 'downhill' for
wherever the water wants to run to see where else it might have gotten to.
Good luck.
Tom
"T-Rav" wrote in message
oups.com...
Tom Dacon wrote:
Well, you may not like ee's opinion, but that's probably where you will
end
up (although you could do it yourself instead of sending it out).
This happened to me once, although not in exactly the same way it did to
you. What's almost certainly going on is that the water in the cylinders
has
caused the piston rings to rust to the cylinder walls. The iron oxide
freezes the pistons tight in the cylinders, and it's a real bitch to free
them up unless you have machine shop resources.
The way I freed things up was to take the cylinder head off and fill up
the
cylinders above the pistons with penetrating oil (I used Kroil, but
Marvel
Mystery Oil would be just as good). Take off the pan and the rod caps.
It's
easiest if you remove the crankshaft, but it's still possible without.
Let
the oil soak in for a long time. Alternatively drive the pistons up and
down
with a medium-sized hand sledge. On the top use a block of hard wood like
oak to cushion the blows. From the underside, you can use a long hardwood
dowel, maybe an inch or more in diameter, pushed up from underneath until
it
contacts the inside of the piston. If you don't take the crankshaft out,
you'll have to start from below until you can drive the pistons up away
from
the journals on the crank. Eventually you'll get the pistons free, and if
you're lucky you won't damage them.
After you get the pistons out, you can break out the rings, and the
pistons
will clean up fine with a wire wheel. But now you're probably looking at
some serious pitting in the cylinders. If the pits aren't too deep, the
block can be overbored to get to a good surface, but you'll need oversize
rings and maybe oversize pistons too. The best possible outcome would be
if
honing the cylinders got rid of the rust without leaving pits. But it
probably won't happen.
Basically this is a rebuild. In a machine shop this kind of thing is a
lot
easier because the machinist can tear the whole block down and then use a
hydraulic press to get the pistons out. You'll spend days at it.
Sorry 'bout that.
Tom Dacon
"T-Rav" wrote in message
ups.com...
ee wrote:
"T-Rav" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for me. I have
a
bayliner that I bought with a rebuilt motor, however, the old owner
left the distributor out of the engine and the cover off over the
winter and the motor filled with water. I was able to drain the
water
and add oil, but I can not get the motor to move. I have taken it
out
of the boat and now it is on a engine stand with the pan off soaking
in
Marvel Mystery oil. The engine was never started with water in it.
Any
suggestions on inspecting for damage? Freeing up the motor? Thanks
for
your help.
Pull the motor and send it to the machine shop for a rebuild.
Hey thanks for that answer. I am looking for suggestions on freeing the
motor and inspection. Not your stupid opinion asshole. Rebuilding it is
the very last option for me.
Hey Tom, thank you so much for the suggestion. Any suggestion on the
bearings? What to look for. Thanks
Yes, the carb had the arrester on it and no signs of water in it. The distrubutor is at the back of the engine. I will try removing the timming chain and see if it is the cam that is stuck. Thanks again.
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